After five weeks of practice at SARD, we spent one of our last days in Cape Coast presenting all that we had learned for a final showcase in our graduation ceremony. We had spent our weeks learning two Fanti songs, two drumming routines, and two dances. The opportunity to show visually how all of us had immersed into the musical culture of Ghana allowed us to not only have fun, but also learn in a hands-on experience. The day was filled with challenges that we had to adapt to, but taken all together the experience was truly beautiful.

The main challenge that loomed over our heads was the ominous dark rain clouds that crept closer and closer as the performance went on. As they approached, they brought the rain. Simply, we had to carry on in spite of the weather change. We had moments where we were dancing in the rain or watching rain drops splash on to our drums and shoulders as we played our songs. Even though the rain changed our environment rather rapidly, we all adapted to our surroundings and persevered. Strangely the rain actually brought our smiles out and we only enjoyed our performance even more. Some of us made awkward eye contact with each other, reading each other’s minds, “Are we really doing this?” “Yup, this is Africa,” and chuckling through the performance. The other mishaps that came our way only added to the memorable experience. We had a song that went on far too long due to our missing conductor, the great Mr. Hooper. We had a surprise costume change, and a slight wardrobe malfunction.

 

We definitely faced our challenges and put on a wonderful show! However, the most remarkable part of the performance was being able to watch the six students from Cape Deaf dance during the ceremony. These students even though they cannot hear the music are truly beautiful and talented dancers. They dance through counts and through sensing the changes in the music from the drum’s change in vibration patterns. If you close your eyes, you can feel the drum beat in your heart. I was fortunate to have the experience to visit Cape Deaf and dance with the students there. They allowed me to dance with them and learn several more Ghanaian dances. Additionally, because of my dance background, Mr. Hooper allowed me to teach a group of students an Indian dance. We practiced without music and simply just by using counts, but on the day of the graduation ceremony, three other girls and I performed the Indian dance using an Indian song I had on my computer. Somehow it all came together, the dance that was put together merely by counts fused with the music wonderfully in one of the most amazing cultural exchanges I have ever had. I will never forget the time I spent with Egbert, Kweku, Richard, Victoria, Hannah, and Georgina. I hope we all never stop dancing and dance for the rest of our lives.

As my time in Ghana comes to an end, I must say that I’ll miss this amazing place. Initially I was so unsure of how I would find my experience in this nation. I was warned that I’d be referred to as an “obrane”, (becuse some letters are not included on this device from the Fante alphabet, this word is indeed spelled wrong). Obrane means white man/woman. Despite my prior warning in the orientation classes, I was still dissatisfied with the categorizatin I find to be incorrect. I was told that because I am from America, it is asumed that I am mixed with European American blood, especially since my skin color is noticeably lighter. However, I’ve never heard the tale of my family tracing our heritage back to white ancestry. Now if they were to guess Native American, then indeed they would be correct, but white I’m not so sure of. Considering the race relations in past and present America makes me feel all the more proud to be Black and not so keen on being called white. On many occassions I explained this and some friends understood while others did not.

I understand that I am a foreigner in Ghana, but the faces of so many people here resemble a cousin, aunt, uncle, even my own parents. I’ve even been asked a few times if I’m originally from Ghana and moved to America. So of course, you can understand why I feel obrane doesnt fit me. At the market, at church, on my way to work I’ve done so many double takes because faces seem so familiar. I’m not so sure one can understand my amazement, excitment, and joy in this discovery unless they were to see it with their own eyes. “Looking in the mirror” made me feel like I was home in a nation that I’d never been to before. In America, where I can face so many challenges as a woman and a Black woman (understand these are entities that have their own problems and are not always unified) it was comforting to feel a sense of belonging. It was a surreal experience to see the place that many of my family members could have come from. There was a connection I felt with this place and the people despite the different language, landscape, and lifestlye. A mirror can never tell a lie someone once said. I just hope one day the rest of my family can see the reflections in the mirror I was so blessed to encounter on my journey in Ghana.

After work on Friday, myself, Carmen and Lin headed to a Ford station to catch a “Tro-Tro” (van) from Cape Coast to Accra. This was my first time on a Tro Tro and I was excited for this new journey, because everyone says that you have not really experienced Ghana until you have been on one. This van was extremely packed and had little air and legroom, but even though we were not exactly comfortable, we did get the chance to have some great conversation with a couple of the locals in the van.
This trip to Accra was especially special to me, because I was staying with my roommate, Kweku’s family and I would be meeting them for the first time. He is currently in the United States, but they were still kind enough to invite me to their house in his absence. We were picked up by his mom. When we pulled up to his house we were greeted by his sister, brother, and aunt. As soon as I opened up the doors to Kweku’s house I saw a big cake and this made we really happy. A couple of days before it was my birthday and this would be my second cake. We were given some time to relax and then we were served dinner. We had beef stew, jollof rice, fried rice, vegetables, and tuna salad. It was such a good meal and soon after we ate my cake, which was extremely delicious. Due to the fact that we all ate so much food, we were quickly ready for bedtime.
The next morning Carmen, Lin and I all woke up early, so Kweku’s mother took us to the University of Ghana, which is close to his house. The campus was beautiful and according to Lin and Carmen, it looked very similar to the universities in China. I was super excited to take a picture by the Sociology department sign at the university since that is my major. We then went back to Kweku’s house to eat breakfast.
Soon after, Kweku’s cousin Kwesi, who is in his twenties took us to city. First we went to a market and it was humongous. This market had anything that you could possibly think of. I bought fabric for my mother and grandmother’s dresses. Soon after this we went to Accra’s cultural center. This is one of my favorite places in Accra because they have a great deal of African jewelry, paintings and sculpture. We spent hours at this market and this is mainly because I spent a lot of time bartering with a lot of vendors on more reasonable prices.
During the night time we went to the Accra Mall where we went to the movie theater. We saw Maleficent, which is a movie that is based on the popular story Sleeping Beauty. I was amazed that this movie theater looked just like the ones in my hometown. I really enjoyed movie and after we walked out of the theater, I truly forgot that I was in Ghana. I truly thought that I was back in the United States at a movie with my friends, but when we walked outside,I was still aborad. This was an extremely weird feeling.
Spending a weekend with Kweku’s family was one of my favorite parts of my stay in Ghana. This Is because his family treated me like I was apart of his family and they reminded me of my own. Kweku’s little brother, Kuuku even told me that I am his second favorite brother after Kweku and this made me feel really good. I honestly did not want to go back to Cape Coast so soon after this amazing experience.

With the world cup entering the elimination stages, soccer, or “football”, fever remains in all of Ghana. Though the Ghanaians were eliminated, nothing has changed while the holy-grail of soccer tournament continued. Vendors continue to sell jersey replicas in the market, people are still doing their best at predicting matches, and boys will play after school. Even after Ghana was knocked out of the tournament, its evident that football in Ghana is more than just the tournament. Nothing made that fact more clear than my last day at Sankofa prep school.

 

For the past few weeks, the boys at the school have been training for the schools first football tournament. This put the “future black stars of Eguafo,” as they called themselves, in a tournament against 7 other local schools to compete for their own cup. As the day began, it was clear that the boys playing were not only excited, but every single person affiliate with Sankofa Prep was afflicted with pride in anticipation for the matches to follow over the next few days. Not much teaching happened, but students from Kindergarten to Class 9 were all anticipating watching their school host the competition. Songs in Fante were sung by the footballers, with the younger boys and girls gradually joining in. The took some sticks from the trees and drummed on tables to show their excitement. The teachers looked about smiling and mouthing the words, and I felt only compelled to move long to the beat of the songs. It was clear that football wasn’t just a game to the Sankofa family, but it was a way to create unity, pride, and community.

 

Soon the headmaster called an assembly, which jointly served as a prep rally before everyone headed over to the field. There at the field with hand made wooden soccer nets. The grass was patchy and uneven, but It was clear that the footballers would not be stopped. Students from all eights schools cancelled classes to watch their team play on the sidelines cheering, playing, completely engaged with the game. Never before have I been a witness to such an event. Not only was it a strong sense of pride, but a spiritual component was evident in which unified the whole community. It was clear that there was so much joy and the games allowed people, especially students and faculty to look past the conditions of the school and enjoy being, living, and supporting each other.